There’s this strange notion that once you’re a surfer (whatever that means), everything else in life takes a backseat to waves. It’s a stupid notion. While surfing is one of the best things in life, there are a lot of other things that are just as good. The Malloy Brothers have that figured out, I think.
Before I started working full time for this website, I did a lot of different jobs. I worked on pipelines in the winters. I was a forest fire fighter in the summers. I worked in a mill, I was a plumber, a pipe fitter, a snag faller, and finally, a utility arborist. Somewhere in there, I went to school for Communications, the vaguest of all diplomas. I wrote freelance for magazines just because I liked doing it. I surfed as much as I could between work, but never really put a huge importance on it–it was merely something I wanted to do as much as I could, but never something that really took a front seat in all the other shit I had going on in my life. I was barely ever on a computer, didn’t have a cell phone, and social media was the furthest thing from my mind. Now, of course, surfing and the internet is front and center ever day; between reading about it, writing about it, and surfing as much as I possibly can, it’s always right there. It’s wonderful. But the idea that a “surfer” needs to only be a surfer and nothing else is a ridiculous one.
The Malloy brothers are lots of things. They are, without a doubt, three incredible surfers. But they’re also family men, fishermen, hunters, and general outdoorsmen. That, as far as I can see, is something that is falling quickly by the wayside in many people’s modern lives–a connection with what is really real. The three brothers have created a life far more real than what is generally sought after–and what is quickly becoming the norm–and judging from my own experience, that lifestyle is far more rewarding.