The Inertia

Whenever I leave the house to go for a surf my wife says, “Have fun at church.”¬†I’ve always felt as though I was at home in the ocean, growing up surfing, bodysurfing, free diving, spearfishing and just swimming – anything to be in the water. I’ve even devoted a part of my career to being in the ocean as a lifeguard.

There is definitely something special about being in an environment humans aren’t built for. The meditative state the ocean can put you into forces attention to the moment, pushing¬†any other stress or outside worries away. I find myself making the most of that meditative quality with my surf and water photography.

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