In 2010, the surfing world was under the misguided impression that Greg Long’s victory at the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational in Memory of Eddie Aikau was founded on a one hundred point ride for taking off on a closeout. The wave that everyone saw, was Long bravely hucking himself super-duper late on a closeout, that probably would have atomized him if it had landed on him.
Despite what everyone thought, this wasn’t his one hundred point ride. Long was aware of what the surfing world was thinking and it bugged him, but he is as mild-mannered on land as he is fearless in the water. He didn’t want to raise a stink until a former surf journalist urged him to clear the air. Telling him, “You have to nip these things in the bud, before the history books get set in cement.”