Big wave surfers are a small and select breed. It takes a lot of guts to paddle out on days when most surfers prefer to watch from the shoreline. But Emi Erickson is not like most surfers. She’s not even like most big wave surfers. As far as I know, Emi Erickson is the only big wave surfer to ride single fin boards exclusively. But to Emi, that’s all a part of living her truth, which she describes in a recent video (above) released through Olukai.
“I got into big wave surfing when there was no flotation,” she said. “And even when it became a thing I rejected it. It’s kinda this mentality of you only get yourself into situations you can get yourself out of.” Between that, her dedication to single fins and the fact that she’s a female big wave rider, she’s a torchbearer for a lot of movements every time she gets in the water.