“It’s like the mafia. Once you’re in, you’re in. There’s no getting out.” –Kelly Slater
Surfing is a lifestyle, full stop. It isn’t like bowling or ice skating, tennis or netball. If there are waves, we almost run out of the house, maybe getting into a wetsuit before we leave, leaving a trail of underwear, socks and chaos behind us. All plans for the day go out of the window.