“It’s freaking pumping and there’s nobody out,” Zack Flores said as he walked out to what he called a “secret spot in SoCal. “The water is 70 degrees and I am frothing.”
If you’ve surfed much in Southern California — especially when the waves are pumping — you know that getting a solo session is damn near impossible. Zack Flores, however, knew where and when to go when Hurricane Genevieve’s waves showed up. He was riding a little self-shaped 5’2″ Steve Lis fish, a shape that Flores absolutely loves, especially when there are little tubes on offer with absolutely no one else around.
“I’d say this is the day of a lifetime out here right now,” he laughed as he ran down the beach after collecting his leash-less board from the rocks. “We’ll see about that when I’m 50, but hoo, it’s the day of a lifetime!”
