Like any surfer, conditions play a huge part in my planning and executing. I check for wind directions, swell direction, weather, swell size, and tides.After gathering all this information along with my gear, I head to the breaks that I think will be producing the best mini curls. Admittedly, I have a couple of spots which rank high as my favorites, but like any good surf spot you want to keep them a secret.
Depending on the shot, I am positioned anywhere from being onshore to two to three feet in the water, lying flat on my stomach ready to jump up as if about to catch a wave on a board. At other times I find myself perched on a rock trying to get the angle needed. I am generally inches from the top of the water when crouching to get into a barrel, twisting and turning, jumping and bending, I have been told it looks like I doing an aerobics class!
Most times I’m the water for up to two hours, some days for multiple sessions. Rain is my enemy; I generally have to wrap a shoot up if it starts to sprinkle.
People are under the misconception that I would face few perils.
What? A 20 centimeter wave is threatening? But you would be surprised! Standing in two to three feet of water itself presents a challenge in keeping my gear dry — you also have the wave crashing causing a splash. Then you have the drag. When laying face down on the sand I heavily rely on my reflexes. At all times I must be watching for incoming swell; if a big wave is coming I tend to get further out in the water to avoid its break, or need to move quick enough to B line it towards the shore. As waves are unpredictable at times you need to have your wits about you, especially for rogue waves.
I know I am in shallow water. It’s not like I’m diving into the shallows like Clark Little, but Mother Nature has her hazards in all forms and the miniature wave is no different, or at least the capturing of it isn’t. Saving myself is not the issue, but saving my camera gear is.
God I love my job!
What a year! Since her last feature, Deb has made the finals for the Nikon Surf Awards (as the only female), had an image included in the Surf Journal Master collection, was a Semi Finalist for the HIPA Awards, and is presently being a finalist for the Smithsonian Oceans photography Award!
