I’ll never forget that cover. The cover of SURFER Magazine that arrived to my house in June of 1995.* On it, a hooded, sixteen-year-old kid hovered in an unthinkably dangerous (and memorable) position – his arms spread eagle atop the lip of a monstrous wave at Maverick’s. You could feel how cold and terrifying it must have been there that day. I was ten, so my imagination was vivid, and I remember trying to identify with how he must have felt. He was certainly embracing for a horrific impact. He clearly had a courage and ambition few possess – as to my knowledge, not many kids charged big waves at that time. The image alone was striking, but the fact that the surfer pictured was a teenager made me wonder if I would have the courage to surf a wave like that one day. Who was he?
He was Jay Moriarity.