A little while ago, I wrote a couple of sentences that made me start thinking about something: “Surfing is leaving. Surfing is looking. Surfing is finding.” Now that I’m done quoting myself – which feels like an awfully arrogant thing to do, here’s what I started thinking about.
I can barely remember the last time I found a new surf spot, but a big part of surfing for me is finding an empty wave somewhere. One of my friends always says he’d rather surf a shit wave with no one on it than a great wave with everyone on it. And although I sort of disagree with that, I know where he’s coming from. Right now, I live in Canada. On the West Coast, right down south, to be exact. And while it’s getting pretty crowded, there are still places to find, still places to explore. Much of the world doesn’t have a lot of that anymore, which is something I find sad. There’s no fun in that. So here, before it’s too late: a few ways to find a new surf spot. And you know what? It still counts if it’s shit. It’s the searching that counts.