Surfing is full of interesting characters. Although there are many who complain that the contest scene is ruining that, those characters still exist. The existence of one form of something does not take away from the existence of another. Derek Hynd is one of surfing’s most interesting characters. You probably know him as the man with no fins at J-Bay. The video you see above is a couple of years old, but it’s well worth the revisit.
It’s rare to find a person with such an inherent knowledge of the way a wave works. Hynd’s relationship with the ocean, its waves, and his craft of choice is something so far beyond what anyone else is doing right now, and the funny thing is, it’s also one of the most simple. He’s surfing for all the right reasons… and that’s a book we could all take a page out of.