Hurricane Epsilon churned its way through the Atlantic, sending waves of gargantuan proportions to places like Nazaré and Mullaghmore. But it wasn’t just Europe that saw that swell — across the pond, on the eastern seaboard of the United States, Brett Barley and his North Carolina crew found themselves in some truly wild conditions.
Of course, as is often the case when you find yourself surfing truly wild conditions, there was an injury. Not a terrible one, but not a great one, either. “Well, I cut my foot open on my fin. It’s actually worse than I thought,” Barley said as he was preparing to use Super Glue to close the wound. “I was just going to bandage it, but now I’m going to Super Glue it…going to clean it all up, Superglue it, duct tape it, and go back out.”
Because a little blood isn’t going to stop Brett Barley from surfing a swell like the one Hurricane Epsilon created, is it? And while the waves weren’t exactly perfect, it was still a day to be remembered. Which, for better or for worse, is generally a good thing.