“Out the back” makes a lot of sense in Hawaii. Photo: YouTube//Screenshot
There are few things on this planet that Jamie O’Brien loves more than Pipe season. His wife, certainly. His newborn child, definitely. But Pipe season? That’s somewhere near the top. And it’s Pipe season.
Although he spends much of his time traveling for waves, home is where Jamie’s heart is. His home looks out at Pipeline, and he’s made an entire career out of being the best guy on the best day at the best wave in the world.
Early season Pipeline is a different animal, though — the reef is covered in sand and the swells are generally not the best direction, but for a first real Pipeline swell, this one was pretty spectacular. Jamie, however, has something a little more spectacular: a newborn son.
“The waves at Pipe are turning on,” he said from his porch. “This is like the first legit swell. I wanted to get out there really badly and then Tina was like, ‘hey, can you watch your son?'”
So Jamie sat happily with his boy in lap watching his friends get barreled… but not for long.
“I’ve probably never seen Pipe this good at this time of year,” he said from the garage as he chose a surfboard. “I don’t even know what’s happening, but we’ve got a few hours before it’s dark and I’m going to get out there.”
