This wave needed some greasy food and a hair of the dog. Photos: YouTube//Screenshot
The North Shore has seen a serious run of swell in recent weeks. Back-to-back-to-back swells banged into the legendary stretch of sand, turning it all into a veritable surfers’ paradise. Sunset was huge. Pipeline has been ridiculous. And when the swell angle changes oh so slightly, Backdoor is amazing, too.
John John Florence has the North Shore dialed, especially Pipe and Backdoor. He grew up there, after all, and the best way to get to know the ins and outs of a playground is to have played on it since you were just a little kid.
While all the waves you see in the video here, courtesy of Off Da Lip, are pretty incredible, the first one surfed by John is especially noteworthy. A spit so big it might’ve stripped the skin off his back.
