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The Inertia

Wipeouts are part and parcel of surfing. You cannot expect to progress without also expecting to cop a beating every now and then, but when you’ve progressed to the point where you’re surfing 25-foot Jaws… well, things get a little different.

Take, for example, the wipeout of Lucas Chianca that you see above. Sure, Chumbo’s copped a lot of floggings in his life, and sure, he’s copped a lot of flogging exclusively at Jaws, but there is no way on earth they’re something you ever get used to. And thank God for that, because we will never get used to watching them.

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