I think a common misconception when people see higher level big wave surfers is that they don’t have fear. I have fear sometimes, but because I am so concerned about keeping my mental state strong I almost don’t even allow myself to acknowledge it. It’s not that I have a big ego and don’t want to say that I am afraid sometimes, it’s that I don’t even want to hear myself saying that, because I am already thinking two months from now when and I’m in a situation and I am alone.
I’m not going to sit around here and do a hundred interviews and talk about how I get scared sometimes. It’s so important to protect and control your mental state. So, yes, on big days I have a ton of adrenaline, a ton of anxiety and fear in that I know if certain situations happen, I am going to be in a very bad spot, and I’m just going to have to deal with it. But my fear is not like, “If I get in that position, I’m done.” It’s like, “If I get in that position I’m going to deal with it as it comes.” If I panic, I am done.
Types of Fear