It was nice to finally have some good waves. We’ve had a bit of surf, and even some size, but I feel like recently we haven’t really gotten that classic South swell that everyone is starving for in Jersey.
Bigger waves reared their form as big closeout walls at times, marching through the pack untouched. In between those were the magic sets, the hollow lines that ran the beach. Random peaks that I’ve rarely seen break were also detonating up and down the coast. There were plenty of lumps to go around and, at one point, I lost count of how many people were in the water. I lost count the number of surfers bucked from the frosty grip of the Atlantic, as if she had something to say. “Can’t sit here!”
Monmouth County was fun, but a lot of people got wind of Bayhead being on fire so they hightailed it into Ocean County. That’s probably where you will see all the photos come from. I couldn’t tell you how it was down there, but I was psyched. The lineups emptied out for the afternoon and it was just friends trading off tubes until sundown.
