Even if you never surf Pipe, just watching it do its thing is one of the joys in life that will make you stop and think “Wow, we’re kind of lucky to be doing this.” There’s something about the fine line a person has to walk here between grace and absolute fear of destruction that defines the pinnacle of the entire dance. It’s crazy. Pipe is terrifying. Pipe is beautiful. And Pipe is often beautiful because it’s so terrifying.
This winter kicked off with the surf world being reminded of how fine that line is. In a matter of days Evan Geiselman nearly lost his life, Makala Jones nearly lost his face, Owen Wright suffered a hold down that ended his World Title chase, and Bede Durbidge shattered his pelvis – all surfing this one wave. That week alone was enough to take that “Wow, we’re lucky” sentiment and give everyone at least a quick moment to think “Why do we (or “they”) do this?” I’m not saying you personally sat down and questioned whether or not you should ever paddle out again. I’m just pointing out the fact that a series of near death wipeouts, even if you’re half a world away, are a quick reminder that some people pay the biggest price for all this.
The thing is, no other wave in the world takes us to those extremes so quickly. From wanting to get a backside barrel of your own anywhere you can find it, to taking a mental inventory of your limits the next. This edit gives a taste of both which each wave. Filmmaker Steven Tiralongo gives us a look from above. Because in spite of all this madness, Pipe doesn’t have to be scary to stay beautiful. And that’s exactly what we got in this early January session.
