Back in 2015, Penguin Books published what’s arguably one of the finest works ever penned about surfing, William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life. Not to heap more praise on the thing than I already have, but Finnegan’s prose about waves and the ocean, specifically, remain some of the most original words on the subject put to paper – a feat that’s pretty difficult to achieve. No wonder the memoir earned Finnegan a Pulitzer.
Call me a purist, but reading words on the page is still my preferred medium of enjoying Finnegan’s writing. But, this beautiful little film above is a close second. With Finnegan himself reading excerpts from his own memoir, the short flick is worth your time.
Film by: Darius Devas