Webster’s Dictionary defines the word “core” as: a central and foundational part, often distinct from the enveloping part by a difference in nature.
But what does “core” mean in relation to surfing? The word is hurled recklessly around on Internet comment boards, usually with accusatory overtones, and I recently realized that I have only the vaguest idea of what “core” actually means. I think I knew what it meant until I thought about it. Then it ran away from me, turning corners just far enough ahead of me so that I could see the trailing end of one foot before it vanished. It may have been wearing Nikes, but I can’t be sure. Whatever the brand, it had shoes on, and I feel like real core would have been barefoot.