Thirty-four surfers stand on the beach with longboards pointing perpendicular to the sand. It’s an eclectic mix. Guys and gals from countries around the world mixed in with Byron Bay locals with a dash of surf celebrity via Alex Knost, Jared Mell, Tom Wegener and a few others. Their only goal is to party-wave to the beach and run to cross a finish line. The guy who finished first was really excited. I could see the look in his eyes when he realized he might win. Suddenly, he started moving double-time, utterly disregarding the safety of his feet, dragging them across the rocks at Wategoes Beach, grinding them to what I presume to be a bloody pulp. So the price of stoke goes.
A few hours later I found myself in an earnest conversation with Cyrus Sutton about the meaning of life. Literally. We weren’t wasted, and it wasn’t even dark. We were just shooting the shit about his new film, Island Earth, and then inevitably the conversation veered to the depths – a place I like to go any time I have Sutton’s ear.