Editor’s Note: The following piece by Kassia Meador is the first in a series about mentorship. It coincides with the DVD release of the film Chasing Mavericks, which revolves around the relationship between big-wave surfer Jay Moriarity and his surf coach and mentor, Frosty Hesson.
When I was a kid, I was in love with the beach culture introduced to me through movies like Gidget and Beach Blanket Bingo. But growing up in the Valley, my only trips to the beach were in those movies and during the summer with my family. My dad would go surfing when we went to the beach, and it was something I always wanted to do.