If I had a dime for every time I heard the analogy that surfing is like a dance with the ocean, I would have at least enough money to buy a six-pack of craft beer. Which is to say that I have heard it enough that the analogy has nearly lost its meaning. Almost completely.
But then I see Leah Dawson surf. It’s mesmerizing.
“My biggest compliment is not that I surf like a man, but that I surf like a woman,” says Leah. “If someone watches me ride a wave, I want them at the end of it to know that I’m in love with the ocean.”